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| Benjamin Franklin's grave, Christ Church Burial Ground |
For the Fourth of July, I thought it might be appropriate to
“Welcome America” to Christ Church Burial Ground, in the heart of
Philadelphia’s historic district. If you’re here to visit, you almost cannot
help stumbling upon this old (and I mean OLD, established 1719), brick-walled
cemetery across from the U.S. Mint (Fifth and Arch Streets). It’s but a stone’s
throw from the Liberty Bell and Independence Hall.
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| Ironwork sign over main gate |
It is one of the nation’s few surviving Colonial and
Revolutionary War-era burial grounds, and right in the midst of the tourist
district. While I’m sure this cemetery has many a first-class tale to tell, I’m
approaching it from the tourist’s perspective. This is where Ben Franklin’s
grave is, and on it visitors toss pennies (“A penny saved is a penny earned”).
But there’s a lot more to Christ Church Burial Ground than that. For one thing,
you have to pay to get in! Three dollars! If you arrive at the right times,
however, you may hit one of the guided tours.
One of the odd and quirky things about Franklin’s grave is
his self-penned epitaph, which is engraved on a bronze plaque near the grave
(you can only see it from the inside of the cemetery):
B. Franklin,
Printer;
Like the
Cover of an old Book,
Its Contents
torn out,
And stript
of its Lettering and Gilding,
Lies here,
Food for Worms.
But the Work
shall not be wholly lost:
For it will,
as he believ’d, appear once more,
In a new
& more perfect Edition,
Corrected
and amended
By the
Author.”
While Christ Church Burial Ground is the only cemetery I know
of that charges an admission fee, don’t hold it against the city (there are
certainly worse things you can rant about, such as the Parking Authority). The
City of Philadelphia does not own Christ Church Burial Ground – it is owned and
operated by Christ Church, which is a few blocks away at Second and Market
Streets. The money goes to the upkeep of BOTH cemeteries – the older one
surrounding the church (which was established in 1695). The one near the mint was
opened in 1719 as an expansion of the churchyard cemetery “
on the outskirts of town.”
Interesting to note that Philadelphia only stretched from the Delaware River to
Sixth Street at that time!
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| Weathered marble headstones at Christ Church Burial Ground |
Christ Church Burial Ground is small (only two acres), but
is a charming cemetery. Its ground holds many statesmen and other luminaries such as Dr. Benjamin Rush and several
signers of the Declaration of Independence. It is fascinating to watch people
from the inside gather outside the fence to peer at Franklin’s grave. While the
cemetery is surrounded by a high brick wall, Franklin’s grave can be seen for
free (even when the cemetery is closed), thanks to his descendants. Back in 1858, they requested that part of the
wall be removed so people could view the grave (this is on Arch Street, near
the corner of Fifth).
If you’re in the historic area, the burial ground is a solid
and tangible piece of our nation’s history, and should be visited. An historian friend of mine once said that if Philadelphia's historical attractions are not within six blocks of the Liberty Bell, tourists will not visit them. Therefore, no one visits Fort Mifflin (near the International Airport) or Betsy Ross' grave (Mount Moriah Cemetery). Christ Church Burial Ground, however, is not only convenient - its the real deal. It isn't fictional history like "Thomas Jefferson's house" or "Betsy Ross' house." The clip-clop of hooves from horse-drawn carriages moving along Fifth Street help to conjure a mental image of how this young nation may have seemed centuries ago. Just close your eyes, stand in the graveyard, and listen.
