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Image courtesy of Emma Stern |
I just spent an interesting evening as a tour guide at
Laurel Hill Cemetery, in Philadelphia. Not a REAL tour guide, mind you, just an
unofficial, auxiliary backup tour guide. Laurel Hill had an evening “Lunar
Stroll” fête that drew twenty people out on a hot July evening. The premise of these
regular outings is photography, though couples sometimes show up without
cameras (hmmm…).
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Emma Stern orienting photographers to the evening's events |
When I said it was a hot evening, I’m talking the tail-end
of a week-long 100-degree heat wave. It was around 90 degrees after dark. Diehard
photographer types (half men, half women) showed up anyway, paying fifteen
bucks a head to stroll the nighttime graveyard after the gates had been locked.
The allure of such an opportunity may explain why some show up without cameras!
So the idea of photographing a graveyard at night is a
broad-thinking approach to making your local cemetery all that it can be for
all sorts of people. Here’s what it said on Laurel Hill’s
website:
PHOTOGRAPHING LAUREL HILL AFTER HOURS
Photo enthusiasts: grab your cameras, tripods and
flashlights, and capture the ethereal wonders of Laurel Hill Cemetery after the
sun goes down. During this guided stroll through the site’s picturesque
landscape, participants will visit some of its most photogenic spots and
evocative statuary, while learning to paint with light using only a flashlight
and ambient iridescence. You will have experiences to share from this rare and
intimate exploration of the cemetery long after its gates close for the night.
Photography experience is recommended. Lunar Strolls will occur on the third
Friday of every month from May through August.
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Image by Ed Snyder |
In the passage above, three things grabbed my attention like
a zombie from behind a gravestone:
- learning to paint with light
- photography experience is recommended
- Lunar Strolls will occur on the third Friday of
every month from May through August
So, let me explain:
1.
“Painting with light” is not for the novice. It
refers to the act of illuminating your subject with a light source while your
camera’s shutter is open. Imagine this: darkened scene (cemetery monuments in
the dark), camera on tripod, exposure on auto, shutter tripped – shutter stays
open looking for light. No light, shutter stays open for a while. At this
point, you illuminate the subject with a flashlight from behind the camera –
you sweep the light across the subject, back and forth, up and down, until the
camera completes the exposure. It will end the exposure when it has sensed that
enough light has hit the image sensor to create a properly exposed image.
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Statuary atop mausoleum "painted" with light, by Ed Snyder |
Painting with light is much easier with a digital camera
than it is with film, because you can instantly see your mistakes on the
display and then adjust for them. Of course you’ll be infinitely more successful
if you have a tutor on the spot. And that’s what I and a few other people were
there to help with.
2.
Being familiar with your camera is key to
successful night photography. Maybe I should say “low light” photography. You
don’t want to be futzing with your camera in the dark, trying to get it to
work. If you don’t know how to use it properly in the daylight, night
photography will just make everything more difficult.
3. And if you don’t get it right the first time,
Laurel Hill has these night time photography ‘workshops’ on the third Friday of every month from May through August! So, try and
try again. After my first outing a couple years ago, I realized I needed three
items without which my efforts were virtually useless (so, learn from my
mistake): a small flashlight to see the controls on your camera, a large
flashlight with which to illuminate subjects, and a tripod.
So, other than providing helpful hints, what would be my
other responsibilities in this endeavor? I assumed one of them would involve
keeping my charges from wandering off into the dark where they might break a
leg in a gopher hole. Herding people did turn out to be a major task (at which
I failed, since I never again saw that camera-less couple again after the made
off toward the mausoleums). I actually spent more time illuminating monuments
and gravestones with my LED panel video light for other people, than I did
making my own photographs. (I did take the people photos in this blog, however, with my Canon DSLR.)
The Lunar Stroll
One of the reasons that Laurel Hill’s Lunar Strolls are so
successful (SIXTY people showed up for the last one!) is because the
coordinator, Emma Stern (Laurel Hill Cemetery’s Volunteer & Administrative
Coordinator), is an accomplished photographer herself. In fact, that is her wonderful image at the very beginning of this article. She is co-owner of
a photographic gallery called
GRAVY in Philadelphia’s Fishtown neighborhood.
(
TheArtblog.org refers to GRAVY as the “
best kept secret in Fishtown.”) Emma is
responsible for turning this photo outing into an actual photographic
workshop.
Not only did she coordinate experienced photographers to help those less
experienced, but she provided other practical things like flashlights and colored
gel filters to transform the flashlights’ color! Oh, and bug spray, snacks, and
cold bottled water too.
In the gloaming (hey, Laurel Hill is an old Victorian
cemetery – I can use words like that), it is easy enough to make photographs.
There’s still enough ambient light to work with. (Want to make your images
appear darker? Stop down your -Ev setting (
see link). But then night begins to
fall, as it usually does, and with it, a conundrum. How to make photos in the
dark? Why does your camera have trouble auto-focusing? As I explained to one
gentleman, cameras use light to create an image. No light, no image (unless
you’re using one of those infrared Russian spy cameras). Challenging, yes, but
at least we didn’t have grave robbers or zombies to contend with (reality often
violates preconceptions of what you’ll find in a cemetery after dark).
Shooting in the Dark
With today’s super light-sensitive digital cameras with
their 3200 (and up) ISO image sensors, when does it becomes truly too dark to
make a photograph? The basic principle behind photography (which I quite knowledgeably
point out in my book,
Digital Photography for the Impatient) is that you need
light to make the process work. The less light, the more difficult it will be
for your camera to record an image. I usually tell people to start by setting
their cameras on auto and letting it make the exposure. See how it reacts to
low light. Most current model DSLRs will keep the shutter open as long as
necessary for the lens to gather enough light to create an image. What you
usually end up with, then, is a PROPERLY EXPOSED image, something like this:
Focusing in the Dark
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Millionaire's Row, photographed by Ed Snyder |
Now, the phrase “properly exposed” has nothing to do with
focus. If you look at my image above, you’ll note that it is not very crisply
focused. Problem is, in the dark, many digital cameras have optical auto focus mechanisms,
which require the subject to be bright (contrasty) enough for the system to
lock on to. No such luck in the dark! If your camera uses Sonar (like the old
Polaroids used to, see
link),
i.e. sound waves to focus, you’d be golden. However, that (better for this
purpose) technology is antiquated. Some modern digital cameras will throw out a
short (“assist”) flash burst to illuminate the subject for focusing purposes
before it will allow you to trip the shutter. Some cameras use infrared to
focus – which is good in the dark, but only for objects within twenty feet of
the lens.
Above is a much sharper image of the same mausoleum scene taken by another photographer. One reason for this is that
Bob Bruhin used a DSLR while I was using my G11 DPS (as I refer to ‘Digital Point-and-Shoot' cameras in my book). In addition to the better light painting and focus, notice how his camera's image sensor interpreted the night sky as orange, whereas mine recorded the same sky as magenta!
A couple techniques I use for focusing in the dark:
- Manually focus as best I can, then use a deep
depth of field (say, f16 or f22) so that any minor mis-focusing is compensated
for by the small aperture. This, of course, requires a very long exposure in
the dark – minutes, perhaps.
- Illuminate your subject with a bright light and
allow your camera to lock into focus, then turn the camera’s (or lens’) focus
to “manual.” Make your exposure while you are “painting” your subject with some
artificial light source.
(Here’s a
link to a good explanation of how different
autofocus systems work on modern digital cameras.)
“Proper” Exposure
When you make night photographs, you don’t necessarily want
a properly exposed image. You may not want all the detail in the shadow areas
because those will not be well-lit and will therefore appear mottled and grainy
in your image. Best to let those areas fade to black and accentuate the
high-contrast highlights of your subject, as in the fabulous image below.
Even the less expensive Nikon DSLRs have image sensors that
are wonderfully responsive to low light. (I own a Canon myself, and it gives me
nowhere as good an image.) So the trick is to NOT use a super high ISO but rather
200 or 400. If you can make an auto exposure this way and light up your subject
with artificial light, the camera will terminate the exposure when it has
gotten enough light to create an image. You can also shoot in manual mode, but
either way, you’re making exposures in excess of thirty seconds (tripod a
necessity).
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Photographers in Laurel Hill Cemetery with cameras on tripods |
Before I start to jump all over the place with night
photography pointers, let me just categorize of few of them as “Helpful Hints:”
Helpful Hint #1
If you’ve never done night photography, start with your
camera on its auto setting. Digital is preferable to film for beginners. That
way, you can instantly see how badly you messed up, so you can make some
adjustments and try it again.
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Ed Snyder, self-portrait lit with LED light panel |
Helpful Hint #2
Use a DSLR. Point and shoot digitals have a much smaller image sensor (generally) which causes
excessive noise in the image. I used my Canon G11 DPS for this self-portrait and you can see that as far as image quality goes, it is no masterpiece! I also avoided color, as a noisy image looks worse in color.
Helpful Hint #3
The photo shoot went from 8 to 10:30 pm, but with nearby
city lights and the moon, there is some ambient light – you’re not in pitch
darkness. Different color temperatures (tungsten from a flashlight,
mercury-vapor from a streetlight, etc.) will flavor your color composition. One
person even brought a couple glo-sticks on a string so an assistant could spin
it overhead and create circular light trails in the image! (Unfortunately, I have
not seen the photographic masterpiece that was subsequently created.)
Helpful Hint #4
Everything looks good on the display. This is actually
something a woman at the event said to me when I commented on one of her
images. And it is SO true! You may indeed, mirabile visu, have a three-inch
masterpiece there on your camera’s display, but when you get it onto your
computer monitor or make a print, you might be somewhat dismayed. Best idea here is to shoot at a low ISO
(200-400) and paint the scene with light. If you shoot at a higher ISO your
camera’s image sensor is going to be out of its normal operating range. True,
you may get some interesting colors, but you may find that your image noise
(see
link) if too great to make a satisfactory print or high-res image.
Helpful Hint #5
Bring:
- Patience
- Tripod and a remote shutter release
- Tiny flashlight to see the controls on your
camera
- A big, bright flashlight to illuminate the
ground as you walk and your subjects (statues, headstones, people)
-
An LED panel video light (not heavy, uses
very little battery power)
The Wrap-Up
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Sepia image of Millionaires' Row painted with light (Ed Snyder) |
Our photo shoot began at dusk at the gatehouse, then progressed
to three of the most photogenic spots in the cemetery – the Warner Memorial, the
granite lion overlooking Kelly Drive, then the “Millionaires’ Row” of
mausoleums near Hunting Park Avenue. By the time the tour wrapped up at the
latter, it was 10:30 pm.
When I’m making a photograph, I am fully concentrated on
this event, no matter how long it takes. As a tour guide trying to hustle
photographers from one area of interest to the next, it seemed to me that these
people were slower than Darwinian selection. It was difficult to pull them away
from each area, they were having so much fun and engaged in interesting
conversation with each other. These were photographers with specific interests
in cemeteries, and there appear to be more of them on the planet than I suspected. One fellow
told me how he became interested in photographing cemeteries: at his best
friend’s funeral, he brought a camera to take a picture of the grave. Afterward, he
began to look around and thought, "hey, nice statues ….."
I’ll leave you with this final Homeric Moment: As I was
discussing cemetery travel (and to paraphrase Henry David Thoreau, I have
traveled extensively in Philadelphia) with one of the photographers, he told me how he tries
to drag his wife along on his photographic escapades. That ended with
the last trip they made – to see the tombstones from Monument Cemetery dumped
under the Betsy Ross Bridge. He went on to say how he read about it on this “cemetery
travel blog" and therefore had to go see the site himself. I interjected that it was my blog, “
The Cemetery Traveler” which he had read. The fellow brightened up and wide-eyed
looked at me and said, “
You’re Ed Snyder?! Wait ‘til I tell my wife!”
Further Reading and Viewing:
Some of the photographers who made photographs during Laurel
Hill Cemetery’s July 17, 2013 Lunar Stroll posted their images on
this Flickr site.