Saturday, November 21, 2015

LITTLE BIGHORN BATTLEFIELD NATIONAL MONUMENT

This week's Cemetery Traveler blog was guest written by my friend Teresa Lambert. I saw some of her images on Facebook a few months ago and was intrigued. She gracefully accepted my invitation to write an account of her visit to the Little BigHorn Battlefield. Her fascination and curiosity epitomize the reasons some of us go out of our way to visit cemeteries. Enjoy! - Ed Snyder


LITTLE BIGHORN BATTLEFIELD NATIONAL MONUMENT
Teresa Straley Lambert

As a child of the ‘60s, I grew up watching TV westerns: The Rifleman, Gunsmoke, Bonanza, Maverick, The Wild, Wild West, and even an occasional F-Troop. And, as a child, it never occurred to me to think that perhaps not all of the characters or situations were portrayed as being historically correct. The “good guys” (Cowboys) all wore white hats and won all of the battles, and the “bad guys” (Indians) all wore very little and lost all the battles. Nor did I think about the “Cowboys and Indians” as a possible metaphor for what was happening during the Cold War at the time. After all, I was just a kid. But whether the shows were historically accurate or a mirror reflecting events and culture during the time they were on the air, they encouraged my life-long interest in history, especially American history. In addition, having a father and other memorable teachers who taught that subject helped, as did our summer family vacations. I swear we stopped at every historical marker in the entire country while traveling!
           
Now, as a woman in her 60s, I still like to watch an occasional western, but mostly I enjoy traveling around the country and discovering or rediscovering historical sites to see what I can learn and to see if what I learn alters what I thought I knew about the place.
              
This is what happened this year when my husband and I took several road trips in our VW camper (“Our Blue Heaven”), covering thousands of miles all over the United States. One of the many memorable places we visited was Little Bighorn Battlefield, a national park in Crow Agency, Montana, featuring not only the battlefield where Custer and over 200 of his men fell along with numerous Indians of various tribes , but also the Reno-Benteen Entrenchment Trail, the Indian Memorial (yes, that’s its name), and Custer National Cemetery.

Custer National Cemetery
We arrived at the national park early on a sunny September morning and discovered that because we are over 62 (I was actually four days shy of that age, but my husband qualified), we could get a “forever” pass for U. S. national parks for the unbelievably low sum of $10.00. The best ten bucks we ever spent!
               
Sadly, what I knew or remembered about “Custer’s Last Stand” from my history classes, I could have written on the back of a postcard. With room left to draw a picture or two.  But after exploring the Visitor Center, with its dioramas, maps, artifacts, and film, I had a better understanding of the events that took place on this wide expanse of southeastern Montana on June 25-26, 1876.

 “Last Stand Hill”

Custer’s marker
Trudging up the path to “Last Stand Hill,” I first saw gravestones surrounded by an iron fence with a large monument standing in the background. The “graveyard” holds over 40 markers signifying where George Armstrong Custer and some of his soldiers fell.  But where the soldiers’ markers are solid white, with a shield bearing the soldier’s name (if known), the 7th Cavalry, and the date (June 25, 1876) carved on it, the shield on the one in the center, George A. Custer’s, is painted black.

Indian markers

However, none of these soldiers is actually buried here. Custer, for example, is buried at West Point, NY, at the United States Military Academy. More white markers dot the vast landscape, from Last Stand Hill to the Reno-Benteen Defense Site, about five miles away. In addition, red granite markers mark the places where men from various Indian tribes fell during the battle “while defending the [tribe] way of life.” Also, across the road from “Last Stand Hill” is a marker commemorating the 7th Calvary horses that had been killed.
               
Indian Memorial
The walkway then led to what at first appeared to be a large, circular mound with four narrow stone openings and some kind of metal artwork behind it. Approaching one of the openings, though, I saw that steps led down into a large space honoring the Indian cultures represented at the battle. Granite slabs on the stone walls, with etched or carved photographs, drawings, documents, quotes, lists of names, and explanations, comprised the interior of the mound.

Indian Memorial
Tribes represented include Apsaalooke, Arapaho, Arikara, Cheyenne, Crow, Lakota, Oyate, and Sioux. In 1991, Congress changed the official name of this area from Custer Battlefield National Monument to Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument and ordered a memorial to the Indians to be built there. Six years later, after conducting a competition to create an Indian memorial, a design was chosen. The memorial’s primary messages are “Peace through Unity” or “Power through Unity.” 

Inside Indian Memorial
Inside Indian Memorial

Many historians believe that the Battle of Little Bighorn did not end on top of “Last Stand Hill” but in “Deep Ravine,” several hundred yards below the hill. Another pathway leads through the prairie to this ravine, with warnings not to stray because of the rattlesnakes’ habitat! Didn’t have to remind me twice! However, some visitors disregarded the sign and we can only hope that they did not cross paths with any venomous critters.

Deep Ravine
Next we returned to our VW bus and drove the five miles to the Reno-Benteen Entrenchment area. The companies of Major Marcus A. Reno and Captain Frederick W. Benteen arrived at the bluffs along the Little Bighorn River on the evening of Custer’s debacle. There they attempted to establish communication as well as a defense perimeter. The Indian warriors, now finished with Custer and his men, surrounded these soldiers and fought into the next day, threatening to break the defense perimeter.
 
Field hospital

From the trails winding around the outer borders of the entrenchment area, one can imagine the improvised field hospital in the center, designated with a red cross marker; the rifle pits and trenches, with dead horses and mules piled on them to add cover; the volunteers trying to get water from the river to the injured soldiers, who had been without it for hours; and the retreat crossing of the 7th Cavalry, with Crazy Horse, Wooden Leg, Black Elk and hundreds of warriors in pursuit.

River

On our ride back to the Visitor Center and the Custer National Cemetery, I contemplated what I had seen and learned at the Little Bighorn Battlefield. Most impressive to me, I think, was the Indian Memorial, with the many quotes by both whites and Indians. In 1869, for instance, after the Washita Battle, and seven years before the Battle of Little Bighorn, George Armstrong Custer was quoted as saying, “I will never kill another Cheyenne.”  In reply, Cheyenne tribesman Stone Forehead said, “If you break your promise, you and your soldiers will go to dust like this.” Additionally, one hundred years later, in 1969, John Wooden Legs said, “Our Land is everything to us. . . . I will tell you one of the things we remember on our land. We remember that our grandfathers paid for it – with their lives.”

Unity through Peace


Stay tuned for Part 2 of Teresa Lambert's odyssey next week:

Teresa Straley Lambert, a teacher of academically gifted students for nearly thirty years, discovered upon retiring in 2011 that her hobbies of photography, travel, writing, and genealogy have turned into a second career. Last year she published The ABCs of Gravestone Symbols, an alphabet book using her photos of gravestone symbols as well as verses she wrote to help explain possible meanings to those symbols. She has also created many photo books of her travels and of cemeteries.


She is a member of the artists’ co-op “Gaslight Gallery” in Findlay, Ohio, where she displays her travel photos, greeting cards, calendars, and books with photographs from places such as England, France, Canada, Peru, and all over the United States. 

      More about Teresa Straley Lambert at the following websites:
       thegaslightgallery.org
       fineartamerica.com (search “Teresa Lambert”)
       abcsofgravestonesymbols.com (author/book page)
       blurb.com (search “Dead Ends Cemetery Photos”)
       Dead Ends – Teresa Straley Lambert (Facebook page)

Teresa Straley Lambert

Thursday, November 12, 2015

It Wanted Me, It Haunted Me - New Ed Snyder Art Exhibit!

On November 20, 2015, there will be an Opening Reception for a show of Ed Snyder’s new photographic work at Red Hook Coffee and Tea in Philadelphia. You are invited. Its free. There will be beer (that's free too.) Red Hook is a great little coffee shop and restaurant in the Queen Village section of Philadelphia (on Fourth Street, a few blocks south of South Street).

Red Hook Coffee and Tea on yelp
Red Hook Coffee and Tea on Facebook

Please join me for some lively discussion on the mourning arts! Let's trade notes about creepy cemeteries we've visited and odd experiences we've had. Angels and Devils, Good and Evil. We’re all haunted by those forces. That’s the theme of this exhibit of new work. It wanted me, it haunted me

I was originally going to do a frightful October show but my handlers had to move me to the November-December slot. Therefore, I’m only going to scare the bejeesus out of you with HALF of my images – one half will be scary, disturbing photography, while the other half will be angels - sweetness and light. In the long run, this might be better for Red Hook’s regular daytime clientele - it would probably not be good for business to have patrons’ children running out the door crying.

So the images will be mostly cemetery scenes - abandoned graveyards as well as eternal mourning figures on which the Victorian light has never faded. You’ll see an odd mix of angels and devils. Maybe the angels represent our respect, maybe the devils our neglect. I’ve thrown a few examples here for you to ponder. 

The show will be up from November 20 to December 11, 2015. So, if you like angels for the holidays, come hungry, dahlin!’ If you want to be so totally creeped out that you can’t sleep after seeing some of my evil stuff, well, I will be catering to your tastes as well. A veritable death salon with crudite. (Any time between November 20 and December 11, you can purchase a piece and get it for Christmas when the show comes down.)


All the work is priced simply: $120 for large pieces, $60 for small. Generally the large ones are in 16x20 frames, the small in 11x14 frames. I’ve been experimenting with all sorts of heavyweight textured paper lately, so you’ll see images printed on watercolor and rag papers. I really like the way they’ve turned out.

The Opening Reception will be Friday evening, 6-9 pm on November 20. Beer is free, as it should be in a perfect world, right? The counter will be open to purchase food and other drinks if you’d like. Come chat and we’ll trade death stories! Afterwords, you might even want to take a walk down the block through Weccacoe Playground.

Why would I suggest walking through a playground at night? Well, if you’ve been following the news, it was recently rediscovered that Weccacoe (near Fourth Street and Queen Lane) was built on top of a centuries-old African-American burial ground. Yes, there are thousands of graves under the blacktop. (Check my blog for the story: The Bones Beneath Us.)

Come see some art, eat, drink, and maybe have a paranormal experience right afterword. It’s a strange world, and its my job to keep it that way.

More of my work can be seen on my website, www.edsnyderphoto.com. Thank you, and good night. Oh, and as always – pleasant dreams!



Monday, November 2, 2015

Progress for Gladwyne Jewish Memorial Cemetery

All Souls Day is an appropriate day to write about my recent visit to Gladwyne Jewish Memorial Cemetery, even though All Souls’ is a Christian Holy Day. All Souls’ is when Christians commemorate the faithful departed, and in a way, this is what a group of twenty-five people did recently in this formerly abandoned Jewish cemetery. They showed their respect for the thousand or more of their ancestors who are buried in this formerly neglected cemetery.

On October 25, 2015, we gathered at Beth David Synagogue in Gladwyne, Pennsylvania (Montgomery County, outside Philadelphia), for a tour and lecture by resident experts on the topic of nearby historic Har Hasetim Cemetery (which is being renamed Gladwyne Jewish Memorial Cemetery). The Synagogue and its staff were very gracious to all the visitors and the rabbi came through the lobby to say hello. Rachael Griffith of the LandHealth Institute greeted everyone and made introductions. Everyone was invited back after the tour for refreshments and to discuss a variety of topics relevant to the cemetery's revitalization, including headstone restoration, gravestone mapping and database creation, and restoring the cemetery's forest ecology. Har Hasetim, a few hundred feet down Conshohocken State Road from the synagogue, is now owned by Beth David Reform Congregation, but we’ll get to that in a bit.

In the fall, our thoughts often turn to death – days get shorter, leaves turn brown and fall off the trees (at least in the northeastern United States). It is nature’s last gasp before the snow flies. November 1, Día de los Muertos, is the Mexican Day of the Dead, when friends and family are remembered who have died. During my recent trip to Har Hasetim, I thought about how close it was in time to Kol Nidre, that solemn time of remembrance (the end of September) when many Jews visit the graves of their parents. This day in Gladwyne, however, was more of a celebration of the future of this historic landmark, the day of the public unveiling of the master plan for its rejuvenation as a permanent memorial to the Jewish population in Philadelphia.

My fascination with this nineteenth century burial ground began many years before I actually found it. Quite literally, it is in the woods, land-locked by surrounding properties. The only way to get to it is by walking or driving across someone’s private residential property. That’s assuming you knew where it was. For many years, it seemed to be just an urban legend until a friend of a friend showed me the way.

The previous times I’d been here I just bumbled in by myself, not really knowing whose property lines to avoid. Turns out I was trespassing! During the tour, we were led into the cemetery along the “Bridlewild Trail,” an easement right-of-way created back when people rode horses through these parts. Currently, the path leads up someone’s driveway and through their back yard.
So, on this lovely fall day, the entire group of us walked down colorful tree-lined Conshohocken State Road to a stone house (occupied, I might add) that was originally the cemetery caretaker’s house and mortuary. We walked up the driveway and through their back yard, making a right turn at the shed and a left around the woodpile! Beyond, and in the woods, are the remnants of the graveyard’s old brick entrance pillars. (The owner of the property came home as we were leaving about two hours later, and was very cordial. The Friends group had previously contacted him so he knew about the tour.)

Once inside the cemetery, the historian of the Friends, Steve Finkleman, gave a detailed account of the cemetery’s checkered past. Interesting points in time include its creation in 1890, its various changes in ownership, infringements on its land, moving of graves, the Sheriff sale, and how Beth David snatched it from the grasp of real estate developers in the 1980s.
 "I got a call from a neighbor who said, there's a bulldozer at the cemetery and they are going to bulldoze the graves," said Richard Elkman, who created the Committee to Save the Gladwyne Jewish Cemetery. The neighbor "was out there with a shotgun to hold them off." - Philly.com
In 1999, after a ten-year legal battle, Beth David Reform Congregation in Gladwyne was granted legal ownership of Har Hasetim (which means, “Mount of Olives,” by the way) Cemetery. Beth David is currently leading the effort to preserve and transform the burial ground into a memorial site with easier access.

The Friends of the Gladwyne Jewish Memorial Cemetery (established in 2012), which is affiliated with Beth David, “has commissioned a plan to clean up the cemetery and restore the graves and headstones, while preserving the plants and trees that are now the natural habitat.” The master plan was created with the help of Philadelphia’s Land Health Institute.

From the Philly.com article, "Effort to restore an old Jewish cemetery:
"The group envisions trails and contemplative spaces, and wants to research the histories of those buried at the cemetery. Digital mapping technology may be incorporated so that visitors can pick a gravestone and use a mobile device to discover the background of the person beneath it.
The transformation will cost more than $1 million, according to the group, which is developing a fund-raising plan.
"We want to tell the story of the cemetery," said Stephen Anderer of Wynnewood [President of the Board of Trustees of the Friends of the Gladwyne Jewish Memorial Cemetery]."It's the story of Jewish immigration at the turn of the century, particularly poor Jewish immigrants. This is a beautiful place to tell that story."
Many of the people interred at Har Hasetim are those who emigrated to America before or during the first Russian pogrom in 1881. Most of the burials (many of whom were children) ended around 1917, when the cemetery fell on hard times. Beth David has access to the burial records, and is planning to put them online at some point. They have been kept by Har Jehuda Cemetery in Upper Darby, PA, which owned Har Hasetim for a period of time.

"Cradle" graves to hold plantings
As our group (which included a fellow in a walking boot and crutches!) walked down the hillside path through the old cemetery, past odd-looking cork trees and wineberry shrubs, various people took turns talking about different aspects of the cemetery. Scott Quitel, ecologist and founder of the LandHealth Institute, told the group about the native landscape and its flora and his company’s proposal to plant sustainable, low maintenance trees and flowers in the cemetery. An interesting discussion ensued around “cradle” graves and how these were meant to hold lives plantings. Carol Yaster from West Laurel Hill Cemetery discussed the different types of stone used for the various grave markers, and how some weather better than others.

According to a recent article in The Jewish Exponent, in September 2015, "West Laurel Hill Cemetery [Bala Cynwyd, PA] announced a partnership with the Friends of the Gladwyne Jewish Memorial Cemetery (operated by Beth David Synagogue). Over the past year, West Laurel Hill staff has helped with the GPS mapping of graves, volunteered at work days, and most recently presented them with funds to help implement their new master plan, which will restore the historical grounds."

Our unique behind-the-scenes tour of Har Hasetim provided insight into the historical, cultural, and spiritual significance of the Gladwyne Jewish Memorial Cemetery as well as the complex tasks involved in transforming this formerly abandoned site into a woodland memorial park. A reflecting pool is planned for the site, possibly near the bottom of the property shown in this photo.

It was a wonderful experience being in the company of all these enthused, learned people who are so passionate about respect – the respect our ancestors deserve. I also felt good about being here for the first time without trespassing! Details should be worked out soon as to how the public can access the property. If you would like to keep up with the progress of the Friends of the Gladwyne Jewish Memorial Cemetery, visit the cemetery, or help in any way, please visit the website or email them at admin@gladwynejewishcemetery.org.

Visiting the Cemetery
The Cemetery is located off Greaves Lane, east of Conshohocken State Road in Gladwyne, PA.  Currently, we are open to visitors by appointment.  Email us to schedule an appointment.

How You Can Help 
Come to a regularly scheduled work party.
Attend a special event or tour
Become a member
Donate
Contact us to volunteer and tell us about your special skills or interests

Email: admin@gladwynejewishcemetery.org
Address:  Beth David Reform Congregation, 1130 Vaughan Lane, Gladwyne, PA 19035
Phone: (610) 896-7485, x104

References and Further Reading:
Friends of the Gladwyne Jewish Memorial Cemetery Website http://gladwynejewishcemetery.org/
For a brief overview of the history of Har Hasetim Cemetery, please see the Philly.com article, “Effort to restore an old Jewish cemetery.”
Previous Cemetery Traveler blogs about the Gladwyne Jewish Memorial Cemetery: